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Guide 01 · Buying Guide

A Complete Guide to Nepali Gold Jewellery

The traditional ornaments, the designs people choose today, and what to check before you buy, explained with diagrams.

Siddhartha Jewellers, PokharaUpdated 8 min read

Gold is part of almost every important moment in Nepali life. A bride receives her tilhari and pote on her wedding day, families buy gold or silver at Tihar, and grandmothers pass down pieces that carry the memory of three generations. For many households, jewellery is also the family's savings, kept safe and worn with pride.

We wrote this guide at Siddhartha Jewellers in Pokhara for anyone buying gold jewellery in Nepal, whether it's a first chain or a complete bridal set. It covers the traditional ornaments you will hear about, the designs most people choose today, and the practical checks that decide whether you get good value.

In this guide
  1. Why gold matters in Nepal
  2. Traditional Nepali ornaments, from head to toe
  3. Popular designs today
  4. How to choose the right piece
  5. What to check before you pay
  6. Caring for gold jewellery
  7. Questions and answers
  8. Sources

Why gold matters in Nepal

Where gold appears in Nepali life
OccasionWhat gold doesPieces you will see
WeddingsMarks a woman as married; given by the groom’s family during the ritualsTilhari, pote, phuli (nose pin), bangles, ring
TeejMarried women dress in red and wear their wedding ornamentsPote, tilhari, naugedi
Dashain and TiharFestive dress; many families buy gold or silver during TiharNaugedi with tilhari or jantar, coins, silverware
Life ritesNewar girls’ Ihi and Bahra ceremonies, old-age JankoSheerbandi, tikma, tayo
Family savingsKept for the future, remade for the next generationHeavier 22K and 24K pieces

Because jewellery carries meaning as well as value, the same piece can be a religious symbol, a family heirloom and an investment at the same time. That is worth remembering when you choose: a tilhari is bought to be worn for a lifetime, while a fashion pendant may be replaced in a few years.

Traditional Nepali ornaments, from head to toe

Nepal's communities each have their own ornaments, and names vary from place to place. The diagram shows where the best-known pieces are worn; the glossary below explains each one.

Diagram 1

Where each ornament is worn

12345678
  1. 1

    Head and forehead

    Sirbandi (shirbandi), maang tika, luswan

  2. 2

    Ears

    Dhungri, chepte sun, jhumka, pinjada, Marwari hoops

  3. 3

    Nose

    Phuli, bulaki

  4. 4

    Neck

    Choker, kantha, tikma

  5. 5

    Chest

    Rani haar, pote, naugedi, jantar

  6. 6

    Long necklaces · the largest pieces

    Tilhari, tayo

  7. 7

    Wrists

    Chura (bangles), kada

  8. 8

    Fingers

    Asarfi (coin) ring

Number 5 is drawn as a rani haar: a heavy gold chain with a large pendant resting on the chest. Number 6 is a chhadke tilhari: strands of green glass beads with a gold cylinder pendant, reaching towards the waist. Not shown: kalli anklets (Newar) and bichhi silver toe rings (Terai).

Necklaces and neck ornaments

Tilhari तिलहरीMarried women
Strands of green glass beads (chhadke tilhari) with a gold pendant, traditionally a small gold cylinder. The groom places it on the bride on the wedding day. Believed to bring good fortune.
Pote पोतेMarried women
Strands of red, green or yellow glass beads. The yellow pote (pahelo pote) is placed on the bride after kanyadaan. Worn at pujas, weddings and Teej.
Naugedi नौगेडीFestivals and weddings
Nine decorative gold beads strung with glass beads. A groom may give it as a symbol of marriage. Often worn with tilhari or a jantar.
Kantha कण्ठाGurung, Magar, Limbu
Gold beads joined by small pads of red felt, worn close to the neck with traditional dress.
Rani haar रानी हारBrides
“Queen’s necklace”: a long, heavy necklace with a thick chain and a large pendant. Popular at weddings in recent years.
Tayo तायोNewar brides
A hollow, six-sided gold pendant on a necklace of panels and snake heads, linked to the founding legend of the Kathmandu Valley.

Head, ears and nose

Sirbandi शिरबन्दीBrides
A gold chain hooked into the hair with a pendant resting on the forehead, similar to a maang tika. Newar brides wear a three-row version across the forehead.
Dhungri ढुङ्ग्रीHill communities
A flower-shaped gold earring set with rubies, emeralds or pearls. One of the oldest designs, now mostly seen on older women in the hills.
Chepte sun चेप्टे सुनHill communities
Flat earrings of embossed sheet gold, decorated with sun-and-rays motifs.
Phuli फुलीMost communities
A small nose pin, worn on the left side. A Brahmin or Chhetri bride changes into the phuli brought by the groom after kanyadaan.
Bulaki बुलाकीMagar, Limbu, Thami
A nose ornament with a pendant that hangs down to the lips. Designs differ between communities.

Hands and protection

Chura and kada चुराEveryone
Gold bangles, often worn with red glass bangles by a bride; kada is a heavier single bangle.
Asarfi ring असर्फीBrides and grooms
A ring set with a gold coin, the most common ring exchanged at weddings.
Jantar जन्तरWomen and children
A square gold or silver amulet that holds a mantra written by a priest or monk. Worn for protection and good fortune.

For the history and regional roots of these ornaments, read The Story of Traditional Nepali Jewellery.

Popular designs today

DesignWhat it looks likeUsual purityGood for
Temple and LakshmiDeity motifs, coin details, often an antique (matte) finish22KWeddings, festivals, heirlooms
Layered haarTwo to five strands of chain or beads at different lengths22KBrides; statement wear
Choker setsA broad necklace close to the neck with matching earrings22KBrides and wedding guests
Light everyday goldThin chains, small pendants (Om, Ganesh, initials), studs, slim bangles22K or 18KDaily wear, gifts
Diamond and stone-setGold settings holding diamonds, rubies or emeralds18KEngagement rings, modern sets
MangalsutraBlack beads with a gold pendant22KMarried women, alongside or instead of pote

Examples from our collection: the Heritage Multi-Layer Haar Set, the Emerald Bead Heritage Choker Set, Traditional Gold Jhumki Earrings and the Ganesha Pendant. Browse more in Gold Jewellery, Antique Jewellery and Diamond Jewellery.

How to choose the right piece

1. Start with how often you'll wear it

Jewellery you wear every day needs to be sturdy: smooth edges, secure clasps and few protruding stones. Pieces for weddings and festivals can be heavier and more detailed because they are worn a few times a year.

2. Pick the purity

22K is the classic choice for traditional pieces; 18K is better for diamond and stone-set jewellery; 24K suits coins and simple, solid designs. Our gold purity guide explains the difference with diagrams.

3. Think in weight, not only looks

Gold is priced by weight, so two necklaces that look the same size can cost very different amounts. Hollow and filigree designs look generous for their weight; solid pieces feel heavier and last longer. Ask for the net gold weight of every piece (1 tola = 11.6638 g).

4. Get the length and size right

Diagram 2

Necklace lengths and where they sit

14–16 in 18 in 20–22 in 24 in 30 in +
LengthWhere it sitsTypical pieces
14–16 in35–40 cmClose around the neckChoker, kantha, tikma
18 in45 cmOn the collarboneEveryday chain and pendant
20–22 in50–56 cmBelow the collarboneMangalsutra, naugedi, haar
24 in61 cmOn the chestRani haar, pote, layered haar
30 in +76 cm +Below the chest, towards the waistTilhari
Standard chain lengths. The pahelo pote traditionally reaches near the heart; a chhadke tilhari can reach below the waist.

For bangles, try them on: the right size slides over the knuckles with a little effort and doesn't fall off. Rings can usually be resized a little, but stone-set and patterned bands are harder to change.

5. Look closely at the craftsmanship

What to check before you pay

CheckWhy it matters
Today’s rateGold prices change daily. FENEGOSIDA publishes the reference rate; our Pokhara rate is on our home page.
Purity on the billThe bill should state 24K, 22K or 18K, so the piece can be valued correctly later.
Net gold weightStones, beads and fillings should be listed separately from gold.
Making charge (jyala)Ask how it is calculated: per gram, per tola or as a percentage.
Wastage (jarti)Added to every piece as a percentage of the net weight, for the gold lost while it is made. Ask what percentage applies.
Luxury taxUsually 2%, added to the gold value and jyala. Check that it is on the bill.
Exchange termsAsk what the shop pays for its own pieces if you exchange them later.
CertificatesFor diamonds and gemstones, ask for a certificate where one is available.

Caring for gold jewellery

DoAvoid
Store each piece separately in a soft pouch or lined boxThrowing pieces together in one box, where they scratch
Put jewellery on last, after perfume and hairsprayWearing gold while cleaning with chemicals, swimming or exercising
Clean plain gold with mild soap, warm water and a soft brushSoaking bead strings like pote and tilhari: water weakens the thread
Have clasps and settings checked once a yearUsing toothpaste or harsh polish on gold

Questions and answers

What jewellery is most important for a Nepali bride?

It depends on the community. At many Brahmin and Chhetri weddings the groom’s side brings the tilhari, the yellow pote and the phuli, along with gold bangles, and the couple exchange rings. Newar brides traditionally wear the tayo and sheerbandi. Ask family elders early, because customs vary from family to family.

Which gold purity is best for everyday jewellery?

22K is the most popular for traditional everyday pieces. 18K is harder and better for diamond and stone-set jewellery that you wear every day.

How many grams are in one tola?

One tola is 11.6638 grams. Ten grams is about 0.857 tola.

What is the difference between tilhari and pote?

Pote is the strand of glass beads itself. A tilhari is a necklace of green bead strands finished with a gold pendant, traditionally a small gold cylinder.

Can I exchange old gold for new jewellery?

Many jewellers in Nepal accept old gold in exchange. The value depends on the tested purity and the net weight on the day. Making charges paid originally are usually not returned.

Sources

  1. Onlinekhabar English 11 jewellery items that you cannot miss at weddings in Nepal (1 February 2022)
  2. Onlinekhabar English Nepal’s 10 most popular jewellery items for women (6 February 2022)
  3. Bhaktapur.com Traditional Newa Jewelry
  4. The Kathmandu Post Traders now offer 999 fine gold (21 January 2017)

Written by the team at Siddhartha Jewellers, Pokhara. Facts about history and customs are taken from the sources above; customs vary between families and communities.

Personal Consultation

Visit our atelier in Pokhara, or speak with our jewellery concierge